Il fascino di un cammino sta tutto nella voglia di mettersi in gioco, un passo dopo l\u2019altro, senza sapere davvero cosa aspettarsi. Khalil, viaggiatore curioso e amante dell\u2019avventura, ci accompagna lungo il Cammino del Salento<\/a><\/strong>, un itinerario che attraversa il cuore della Puglia, da Lecce a Santa Maria di Leuca tra scogliere, paesini costieri e un mare che non smette mai di farsi sentire. In questo suo diario, ci racconta con ironia e spontaneit\u00e0 le sue cinque tappe lungo la Via del mare<\/a><\/strong>, vissute tra pioggia, sole, vento e meraviglia, in un viaggio fatto di emozioni e imprevisti. Un\u2019esperienza vera, intensa e libera, che ci invita a rallentare, a perderci e a lasciarci sorprendere. Pronti a camminare con Khalil nel cuore del Salento?<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n Hai voglia di condividere il tuo racconto di cammino con la nostra community? Scrivici a info@camminiditalia.org<\/a>: ti invieremo tutte le indicazioni per raccontare la tua avventura! E se preferisci un contatto diretto unisciti alla nostra Community su Facebook<\/a> e condividi il tuo racconto con noi e altri appassionati.<\/em><\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n E per non perderti lungo il tuo percorso, scarica l\u2019app di Cammini d\u2019Italia! Troverai tutte le tracce GPX dei principali cammini italiani e potrai navigare facilmente, anche offline. Scopri tutti i dettagli qui!<\/a><\/em><\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n Il mio cammino \u00e8 iniziato da Lecce, la Firenze del sud, con i suoi palazzi barocchi e le strade di pietra che sembravano brillare sotto il cielo grigio. Partire con la pioggia non era nei miei piani, ma ormai non si tornava indietro. I primi chilometri sono stati un\u2019immersione nella campagna salentina, tra ulivi secolari e sentieri che la pioggia aveva trasformato in piccoli fiumi di fango. Ogni passo era una sfida: cercare di non scivolare, evitare le pozzanghere (impresa impossibile) e accettare che ormai ero gi\u00e0 zuppo fino alle ossa. <\/p>\n\n\n\n Dopo ore di cammino, ho finalmente visto il mare. San Foca mi ha accolto con onde scatenate e un vento freddo che sapeva di libert\u00e0. Il cielo plumbeo, l\u2019odore di salsedine e il rumore dell\u2019acqua in tempesta hanno reso l\u2019arrivo ancora pi\u00f9 intenso. Ero stanco, bagnato e infreddolito, ma quell'accoglienza ripagava tutto. Il primo giorno era andato, e il cammino era appena iniziato.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Se c\u2019\u00e8 una cosa che ho capito oggi, \u00e8 che il Salento ama sorprendere. E anche un po\u2019 prendere in giro i camminatori. Sole? Presente. Nuvole? Certo. Vento? A tratti fastidioso. Pioggia? Ovviamente s\u00ec, ma solo quando pensavo di averla scampata. La giornata \u00e8 iniziata con entusiasmo e una leggera illusione di stabilit\u00e0 meteorologica. Uscendo da San Foca, il sole mi ha fatto credere che sarebbe stata una tappa da cartolina. Arrivato a Roca Vecchia, la grotta della poesia <\/strong>sembrava brillare sotto la luce perfetta: acqua turchese da fare invidia ai tropici e scogli bianchi levigati dal tempo. Un vero spettacolo.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Proseguendo verso Torre dell\u2019Orso, le nuvole hanno deciso di farsi avanti, giusto per ricordarmi che la fiducia nel meteo era mal riposta. Poco dopo, a Torre Sant\u2019Andrea, i panorami erano talmente mozzafiato che quasi non mi accorgevo del vento che iniziava a sferzare la costa. I faraglioni sembravano sbucare dall\u2019acqua come giganti silenziosi, mentre il mare continuava a cambiare colore, dal blu profondo all\u2019azzurro acceso.<\/p>\n\n\n\n E poi\u2026 la pioggia. Ma non una pioggerellina simpatica, no. Un bell\u2019acquazzone finale, proprio negli ultimi chilometri prima di Otranto. Giusto per ribadire chi comandava. Ma chi si lamenta? Ho visto posti incredibili, camminato su sentieri selvaggi a picco sul mare e riempito gli occhi di meraviglia. Quando sono arrivato a Otranto, fradicio ma felice, una cosa era certa: il Salento mi aveva gi\u00e0 conquistato.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Dicono che il Cammino del Salento<\/a><\/strong> sia ben segnalato. Ok. Ma io, da vero amante dell\u2019avventura (o semplicemente con poca attenzione ai cartelli), ho deciso di interpretarlo a modo mio. Seguire i sentieri battuti non era abbastanza emozionante\u2026 quindi? Ho optato per la versione \u201cesploratore inesperto\u201d: rocce, sterrati, deviazioni improvvisate, acqua talmente blu che sembrava photoshoppata e una brezza perfetta per sentirmi in un documentario di National Geographic.<\/p>\n\n\n\n La mia strategia di navigazione? Seguire il mare e sperare per il meglio. Incredibilmente, ha funzionato! Dopo chilometri di meraviglia, e senza nemmeno dover chiamare i soccorsi, sono arrivato a Santa Cesarea Terme. E l\u00ec, boom: Palazzo Sticchi. Maestoso, con la sua architettura arabeggiante, si affaccia sul mare come se fosse il protagonista di un film. Ho avuto un attimo di esitazione: sono in Salento o in un racconto delle Mille e una notte? Alla fine, sono arrivato sano e salvo, il che \u00e8 gi\u00e0 una vittoria. E devo dire che scegliere la via meno ovvia ha reso tutto ancora pi\u00f9 bello. A volte basta uscire un po\u2019 dal percorso segnato per godersi il cammino in modo tutto suo.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Oggi il Salento ha deciso di mostrarsi in versione perfetta: sole, cielo limpido, ulivi dappertutto e fichi d\u2019india a non finire (solo le piante, eh, niente frutti\u2026 quindi zero spuntino gratis). E poi il mare, sempre l\u00ec, a farmi compagnia e a tentarmi con quel blu irresistibile.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Dopo una giornata cos\u00ec, arrivo a Marina Serra con un\u2019idea chiara: tuffarmi nella sua piscina naturale. Ma ecco la realt\u00e0 che mi aspetta\u2026 Il sole \u00e8 quasi sparito, l\u2019aria \u00e8 diventata frizzantina e io, che fino a un attimo prima mi sentivo un esploratore selvaggio, mi ritrovo a fissare l\u2019acqua mentre il mio cervello si divide tra \u201cbuttati, sar\u00e0 bellissimo\u201d e \u201cs\u00ec, ok, ma poi chi si asciuga??\u201d.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Risultato? Niente tuffo, solo contemplazione malinconica. Per\u00f2 mi sono rifatto a cena con un piattone di orecchiette alla leccese. Alla fine, meglio uscire da un ristorante soddisfatto che dall\u2019acqua congelato!<\/p>\n\n\n\n Parto con la carica giusta, consapevole che sono ormai all\u2019ultimo giorno. La tappa? Un sogno: sole, mare sempre pi\u00f9 vicino e sentieri che sembrano fatti apposta per regalarti emozioni. Ogni passo mi avvicina al traguardo, e il paesaggio ti fa dimenticare la fatica.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Il momento tanto atteso? Finalmente, a fine cammino, riesco a fare quel tuffo che aspettavo da giorni. Peccato che l\u2019acqua fosse gelida, ma chi se ne importa! Dopo tutto il sudore e i chilometri percorsi, il mio corpo aveva proprio bisogno di un po\u2019 di frescura. Per fortuna, il sole era ancora l\u00ec, pronto ad asciugarmi in un attimo.<\/p>\n\n\n\n E poi, l\u2019ultima salita verso il Santuario di Santa Maria di Leuca<\/strong>. Non \u00e8 stata una sfida, ma solo il giusto modo per chiudere in bellezza. Arrivato in cima, ho pensato: \u201cce l\u2019ho fatta, \u00e8 finita!\u201d E cos\u00ec, con il cuore felice e un sorriso che non se ne va, posso finalmente dire: Cammino del Salento <\/strong>completato! Un\u2019avventura che rester\u00e0 per sempre nei miei ricordi.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Vuoi programmare il tuo prossimo cammino? Abbiamo scritto l'Altante con pi\u00f9 di 100 itinerari<\/a>! Preparati a viaggiare!<\/mark><\/strong><\/p>\n","post_title":"Scogliere, vento e mare: Khalil sul Cammino del Salento","post_excerpt":"","post_status":"publish","comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","post_password":"","post_name":"scogliere-vento-e-mare-khalil-sul-cammino-del-salento","to_ping":"","pinged":"","post_modified":"2025-04-18 11:40:12","post_modified_gmt":"2025-04-18 09:40:12","post_content_filtered":"","post_parent":0,"guid":"https:\/\/camminiditalia.org\/?p=50938","menu_order":0,"post_type":"post","post_mime_type":"","comment_count":"0","filter":"raw"},{"ID":27411,"post_author":"2","post_date":"2024-02-13 16:02:33","post_date_gmt":"2024-02-13 15:02:33","post_content":"\n E se Natale lo passassi in cammino? Beh, mi sembra un\u2019idea sensata.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n Inizio a cercare tra i vari cammini e mi imbatto nel cammino del Salento. Trovo il sito, guardo qualche foto, il percorso, le temperature\u2026 basta, penso di aver avuto l\u2019imprinting<\/em>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Senza ragionarci troppo faccio richiesta della credenziale e prenoto gli alloggi dove dormire. Essendo il periodo natalizio ho paura di non trovare nulla ma invece non ho avuto problemi. Probabilmente avrei potuto prenotare anche la sera prima per il giorno dopo, ma tanto le tappe sono quelle e quindi \u201cperch\u00e9 rischiare?<\/em>\u201d.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Incomincio a preparare lo zaino: 2 maglie termiche, 2 maglie normali, leggings, calzini tecnici, scarpe di fiducia, pile, giacca a vento\u2026 tutto pronto.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Prendo l\u2019aereo per Brindisi, la mia citt\u00e0 natale, e da l\u00ec vado poi in treno a Lecce pronta a partire il giorno dopo.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Inizia cos\u00ec la mia nuova avventura.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Lecce \u00e8 quella citt\u00e0 che deve essere goduta dal mattino alla sera almeno una volta nella vita.<\/p>\n\n\n\n La conoscevo gi\u00e0 ma ho comunque deciso di perdermi tra le sue vie, ammirare il barocco che la caratterizza e spulciare tra l\u2019artigianato locale.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Mi dirigo a Porta Napoli e da l\u00ec incomincia il mio cammino.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Io ho scelto di percorrere la Via del Mare (e non la Via dei Borghi), quindi questa tappa mi porter\u00e0 a San Foca, localit\u00e0 di mare, attraversando per\u00f2 l\u2019entroterra.<\/p>\n\n\n\n La prima tappa, come ogni prima tappa, \u00e8 un po\u2019 d\u2019assestamento: faccio capire al corpo che \u201cehi, da ora in poi ti devi muovere<\/em>\u201d e inizio a staccare la mente da tutti i pensieri e le ansie quotidiane.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Arrivo a destinazione dopo 5 orette. San Foca \u00e8 una localit\u00e0 estiva e quindi trovo tutto chiuso, ma poco importa. Mi rilasso e mi preparo per il giorno dopo.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Oggi finalmente si cammina sul mare. Non so bene cosa aspettarmi, ho paura che camminare vedendo sempre e solo mare possa essere noioso.<\/p>\n\n\n\n E invece?<\/p>\n\n\n\n E invece wow!!<\/p>\n\n\n\n \u00c8 stata una continua meraviglia, come tutto il cammino del resto.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Sono passata per la Grotta della Poesia e quella zona conosciuta come i Caraibi del Salento. Arrivo poi in una grande pineta e proseguo infine per Otranto.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Nonostante la stanchezza mi concedo di girare per le stradine di Otranto. Entro nella cattedrale che nasconde un bellissimo pavimento in mosaico, una cripta e un luogo in cui sono conservati i teschi dei martiri di Otranto. Non mi perdo neanche il castello che al tramonto \u00e8 magico. Concludo la giornata in una piazza che d\u00e0 sul mare. Non so come ma essere qui, da sola, a guardare verso l\u2019orizzonte, mi fa percepire tutta la storia di questo posto.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Da qui la via del Mare e la Via dei Borghi si uniscono e proseguono per lo stesso percorso.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Mi metto in cammino sul presto e dopo aver costeggiato la costa per un bel tratto arrivo in una cava di bauxite, una delle pi\u00f9 importanti d\u2019Italia.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Proseguo fino a trovarmi davanti a un faro bianco che fissa il mare e io mi fermo l\u00ec a fare la stessa cosa. Mi ricorda tanto un vecchio film, \u201cMediterraneo\u201d.<\/p>\n\n\n\n La tappa continua facendomi attraversare un parco naturale molto suggestivo e caratteristico.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Sia nella seconda tappa che in questa mi sono persa molte volte. I segnali non sono sempre molto chiari e a volte sono del tutto assenti. Ad ogni modo, nulla che delle tracce GPS non possano risolvere. Quindi, don\u2019t worry<\/em> e proseguite.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Questa tappa \u00e8 stata molto interessante per la variet\u00e0 di paesaggi che mi ha regalato: faro Palasc\u00eca, Torre Sant\u2019Emiliano, Porto Badisco\u2026 arrivata a fine tappa mi \u00e8 sembrato come se avessi visitato tanti paesi differenti e invece ho solo percorso 22 chilometri.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Oggi ho incontrato altri pellegrini con cui ho scambiato qualche chiacchiera e cenato insieme. Pensavo che sarei stata completamente sola e invece eravamo in 11 a essere in cammino. Concludo la giornata in un ostello donativo che non mi fa mancare nulla.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Oggi passo da Castro. Mi sono presa del tempo per visitarla e ho anche approfittato della lavanderia a gettoni che si incontra sul cammino. Ho messo i vestiti a lavare e per la successiva mezzoretta sono andata in giro. Si dice che sia qui che Virgilio fece sbarcare Enea anche se, secondo alcuni, questi approd\u00f2 invece a Porto Badisco.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Recupero i miei vestiti e vado a fare la passeggiata sulle mura, dopodich\u00e9 scendo verso Castro Marina. Credo sia impossibile non perdersi nel colore che il mare ha in questi luoghi. Lo trovo magico. Infinite sfumature di blu e verde acqua.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Proseguo poi in direzione Tricase attraversando i tipici campi pugliesi delimitati dai muretti a secco. Le salite e le discese che incontro non danno molta tregua alle mie ginocchia infiammate. Pensavo sarebbe stato un cammino totalmente in piano e invece ho dovuto ricredermi. Meglio cos\u00ec.<\/p>\n\n\n\n A fine tappa mi ristoro in un bellissimo B&B a conduzione familiare e ceno con delle orecchiette con le cime di rapa (uno dei piatti caratteristici della Puglia).<\/p>\n\n\n\n Mi sveglio triste come ogni volta che mi ritrovo a percorrere l\u2019ultima tappa.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Prima di mettermi in cammino mi fermo ad ammirare le famose piscine naturali di Marina Serra.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Oggi sul percorso ho la fortuna di vedere il Palazzo Serafini-Sauli di Tiggiano, il Palazzo feudale Capece di Corsano, le torri costiere di Marina di Novaglie. Il pezzo di cammino pi\u00f9 suggestivo \u00e8 per\u00f2 stato il sentiero delle Cipolliane, con le sue grotte e il Ciolo, il fiordo pi\u00f9 bello del Salento, con il suo ponte che unisce le due sponde delle rocce.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Continuo a camminare fino ad arrivare a Santa Maria di Leuca e qui mangio il miglior rustico e il miglior pasticciotto che abbia mai assaggiato in vita mia (altre tipicit\u00e0 pugliesi).<\/p>\n\n\n\n Il punto finale \u00e8 dove si trova il faro e il Santuario de Finibus Terrae. Mi armo quindi di pazienza e inizio a salire i 284 gradini che mi separano dalla meta.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Oggi il tempo \u00e8 perfetto, nuvoloso il giusto da regalare riflessi meravigliosi sul mare, che sembra uno specchio e riflette l\u2019infinito.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Sono grata di aver scelto questo cammino, l\u2019ho amato in ogni suo punto. Ho riscoperto una Puglia che non mi aspettavo, stupenda.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Vado a ritirare in un hotel il testimonium<\/em> del cammino, ossia quel foglio che certifica che ho percorso il cammino, e riparto per tornare a casa.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Sono stanca ma felice, davvero tanto.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Victoria, @camminoverso<\/p>\n\n\n\n Imagine being a father, and realizing the dream of sharing a path with your daughter. Because, that's just how it is, there is something special about walks taken together, step by step, when time slows down and the landscape becomes a conversation and an opportunity to come together more and more. Roberto and Martina, two intrepid walkers, have chosen to walk the Cammino del Salento - Via dei Borghi, from Lecce to Santa Maria di Leuca, crossing countryside red with earth and olive groves marked by the wind, villages where in sunny piazzas the Salento pizzica resounds. Their diary has it all: the heat, the impromptu stops, the missing orange arrows, the figs picked along the way, the smiles of the people, the sea approaching stage after stage. A true and full of life tale, where Salento shows itself for what it is, that is, a land that welcomes, that tires and stays inside, but above all the sincere tale of an experience that goes beyond the destination: a familiar journey, made of fatigue, laughter and daily wonder. A journey that starts in Lecce and ends \"Finibus Terrae,\" but which in reality, like all journeys, does not really end. <\/em><\/p>\n\n Do you also feel like sharing your walking experience with our community? Email us at info@camminiditalia.org<\/a> and we will send you all the information you need to tell your adventure. If you prefer, you can also join our Facebook Community<\/a> and share your story directly there. <\/em><\/strong><\/p>\n\n And if you want to make sure you don't get lost along your route, remember to download the Cammini d'Italia app before you leave! With it you'll have all the gpx tracks of many Italian walks at your disposal and you can navigate easily, even offline. Find out more at this link!<\/a> <\/strong><\/em><\/p>\n\n For example, we like the south. Lecce, the starting point of the Salento Cammino di Dante, can be reached in several ways, car, train...we, my daughter Martina and I, chose the plane from Genoa to Brindisi. From Brindisi airport you can reach Lecce by a Cotrap bus, tickets can also be made on board as well as at the newsstand in the airport, which in about forty minutes arrives at the Lecce bus terminal in Piazza Carmelo Bene. This square is quite central and in a few minutes you can reach Porta Napoli, one of the gates leading into the city's historic center. <\/p>\n\n We arrived in Lecce in mid-afternoon and reached our B&B to deposit our backpacks, waited until around 6 p.m., mostly because of the heat, and then went for a stroll through the historic center entering through Porta Rudiae, which leads directly into Via Giuseppe Libertini the main thoroughfare into the city and leads into Piazza Sant'Oronzo, the city's heart. <\/p>\n\n The impact is absolutely positive, the typical light color of Salento stone dazzles and fascinates. Palaces, churches, small squares, many bars and restaurants, many stores, some characteristic others less so. On all the artisans working with papier-m\u00e2ch\u00e9 and the pastry shops with the typical \"pasticciotto\" an authentic star of Salento. Time for an aperitif, a few tours to less touristy areas of the center and then to dinner for a first encounter with Salento cuisine. <\/p>\n\n The Salento path offers two options, the Way of the Sea<\/a><\/strong> is the Via dei Borghi<\/a><\/strong> which, after a different start, come together after three STAGES. We chose the Via dei Borghi seeking something less touristy and, in our opinion, the walk proved us right. <\/p>\n\n 22 km<\/strong><\/p>\n\n We set off in the morning very calmly, as per a travel philosophy we have given ourselves, after a pleasant breakfast at our B&B run by a fantastic lawyer whom we will meet again at the end of the walk. The backpacks, our traveling companions, are 40 liters and contain the necessities, perhaps something more, T-shirts and underwear, bathing suit, a light beach towel, a change of clothes for the evening, a light windproof jacket, flip-flops, \"crabs\" for bathing in the rocks, the necessities for the toilet, cables for the phone and a power bank, a health kit with providential band-aids, the water bottle. <\/p>\n\n Every walk starts with the backpack: discover our <\/mark>Guide to the First Walk<\/mark><\/a>, to start light but ready for anything.<\/mark><\/em><\/strong><\/p>\n\n Another travel companion is the pilgrim's passport<\/a><\/strong> which we had previously requested from the promoters of the camino on their official website containing information about the route and especially spaces for the coveted stamps that attest to the destinations reached and also constitute a beautiful memento. Also from the promoters we also had GPX tracks that supplement the sometimes missing orange arrows. <\/p>\n\n That said, we set off. The walk begins at Porta Napoli, which we reach in a few minutes; after the customary photos, we cross Lecce, this time no longer as tourists but as walkers. Leaving the suburbs we finally reach the countryside and begin to become familiar with an environment that will accompany us for the next few days. Olive groves, unfortunately many with still signs of the Xylella that has raged far and wide but also many new plantings and other survivors. Predominantly red, stony soil. Dry stone walls everywhere and square-based, terraced trulli that we learned were typical of Salento and called pajare. Then blackberries and figs to refresh us on the way. <\/p>\n\n Lots of prickly pears a real splash of color everywhere. Hard in this context not to be reminded of Rino Gaetano's song \"Ad esempio a me piace il Sud,\" which could very well be the soundtrack of our walk. The first town we encounter is San Cesario di Lecce, which confronts us with an urbanistic and architectural reality that we will find again throughout the journey, low houses, similar to each other, streets apparently all the same converging toward a center, generally consisting of a large square with important and ancient religious and civil buildings, all extremely oversized as evidence of an important past. <\/p>\n\n These features we will find more or less the same wherever we passed. But before we can get to the center we are faced with a first problem, the GPX tells us to cross the railroad at a level crossing but a wall has been built here and we have to look for an alternative that we find in an underpass a little further away. The first stamp after the one in Lecce we make in San Donato di Lecce where we stop for a snack. <\/p>\n\n At this point there are about 7 kilometers to go, it is 2:30 p.m. and it is very hot. We start back toward Sternat\u00eca our final destination for today and about halfway down we come to the small church Madonna della Neve, which has valuable frescoes of saints and saints from the 1400s in its oldest part. We arrive in Sternat\u00eca around 6 p.m. and the lady at our B&B (another lawyer) welcomes us with fresh water, grapes and tarallucci-what more could you ask for? Sternat\u00eca has a beautiful historic center full of noble palaces and churches here they speak Griko Salentino, a Greek-Italian language. In the evening we get our passports stamped and go to a pizzeria that will positively surprise us. <\/p>\n\n 20 km<\/strong><\/p>\n\n We have breakfast in a caf\u00e9 in the square of Sternat\u00eca, always an interesting time to get closer to the social reality of villages, and leave, stopping immediately to visit the parish church of Santa Maria Assunta where the very kind parish priest gives us information about the village and its parishioners. We leave the historic center of Sternat\u00eca by Porta Fil\u00eca, but before entering the countryside we buy postcards and stamps, items from another era but well suited for walkers, and we plan to write them again in the evening. After a while we walk through a flat and barren landscape, little vegetation, a few pajara, the railway line that we cross several times. <\/p>\n\n Almost immediately we arrive in Soleto and we take the opportunity to drink a \"caf\u00e9 leccese,\" coffee on ice with almond syrup, an experience that the parish priest of Sternatia had recommended to us and that satisfies us. Between Soleto and Galatina we have our second setback, the orange arrows lead us to a barred road and the GPX does not recognize the places, so we walk on sight cutting through fields and after a few hundred meters we find the path again. After this setback we arrive in Galatina, \"home of pasticciotto\" the typical Salento dessert made of short pastry filled with custard but with many other variations in the filling, cream and black cherry, pistachio. <\/p>\n\n They come in different sizes and make a fine display in the windows of bars and pastry shops. We sat in a cafe in a bar in the square in front of the Basilica of St. Catherine of Alexandria, a facade that under the 1 o'clock sun is a joy to behold; here we also make our fourth stamp. The center of Galatina is bustling, tourists, locals, luminaries in honor of \"Santu Paulu\" who is invoked for protection from the bite of the taranta. Another coffee from Lecce and we are on our way again. We are 10 kilometers away from our STAGE destination. <\/p>\n\n There are many clouds in the sky today and the heat is tempered by a fairly strong wind. We travel several country roads through fields and olive groves and arrive at a large pine forest crossed by a wide dirt road, here we meet a kitten without a tail who follows us for a while to Martina's delight. Leaving the pine forest, it is not long before we continue on a paved road that takes us to Corigliano d'Otranto. The first impression is the same as when we entered the other villages-low houses, similar to each other-and here too suddenly the view widens and we find ourselves in a tree-lined square with a large castle in the background. <\/p>\n\n It is the Castello de' Monti, an example of the transition from medieval square towers to Renaissance round towers and how fortresses in the 16th century adapted to the arrival of gunpowder in wars. An imposing building surrounded by a deep moat, this is where we go for the stamp. It currently hosts art events under the name Flying Castle. From Piazza Castello through a narrow gate we enter the historic center and arrive at our very cozy B&B. We have dinner near Piazza Castello and here in my opinion we have our best dinner with Grika salad, fava beans and chicory, maritati with sausage, eggplant, tomato and arugula, meatballs with sauce, spumone and revisited torta sbrisolona made by the restaurant owner. All truly excellent. Especially the maritati, a typical wedding dish that combines together orecchiette and maccheroncini. <\/p>\n\n 27 km<\/strong><\/p>\n\n Here again we have breakfast in the nearest cafe observing the very relaxed comings and goings of patrons, return to pick up our backpacks and set off for the third STAGE, a little worried about what will be a record length for our walk, almost 30 kilometers, final destination Otranto and the sea. The owner of the B&B who has just returned from the vegetable garden gives us two handfuls of the sweetest cherry tomatoes-this is Salento, too. We stuff our postcards and are on our way. After a little more than three kilometers we arrive in Melpigniano, another municipality in Salentinian Greece, a town famous for the extraction of the Lecce stone that characterizes Salento's construction and for La Notte della Taranta, the concert that concludes the festival that travels through Salento's towns. <\/p>\n\n It has just rained when we arrive in Melpignano and we arrive right on the large square of the former Augustinian Convent that traditionally hosts the event. The grass on the big lawn glistens laden with rain in the sun, large puddles reflect the facade of the former convent church. Not a single person around, this was the hallmark of these first three days of the walk, wonderfully empty villages, no other walkers. In this regard it must be said that the period we chose is not exactly the best, still too hot. <\/p>\n\n From September 15 onward the right and busiest time begins. Returning to Melpignano usual rigmarole of low houses that open onto a wonderful and huge square, everything is in Lecce stone and shines under the sun, here and several billboards recall the artists of past editions of the concert, in front of the town hall an original art installation reinterprets the road signs. The nasty surprise is that the bar that is supposed to stamp us is closed permanently and at the tourist information office, housed in a beautiful building formerly used for tobacco processing, the clerk is \"out of the office\" and will remain so for a long time, beyond our patience. <\/p>\n\n That empty space between stamps will be a vulnus in our spirit as walkers that only the splendor of the old town of Melpignano and a mural dedicated to the group CCCP have managed to heal. We set off on a road surrounded by quarries of Lecce stone and after a little less than four kilometers we are in Cursi, large square, large buildings, here we get our stamp at the bakery and take advantage of eating some pizzas. We continue through olive groves and at a certain point the road begins to climb slightly toward the sanctuary of Montevergine in the town of Palmariggi. <\/p>\n\n The shrine is nestled in a pine forest and is a place of great devotion for the surrounding villages and a destination for pilgrimages and country festivals. From the shrine one descends to Giurdignano on a badly paved and brushwood-invaded road that crosses a disused railway line with ghost stations. Giurdignano is known as the \"megalithic garden of Italy\" because it has a large concentration of menhirs and dolmens, and our walk encounters some of them, which we are unable to fully appreciate due to hunger and thirst. <\/p>\n\n Giurdignano is also the place for our eighth stamping, and, hungry and thirsty, around 2:30 p.m. we head for the bar in charge of stamping, but find that it will open no earlier than 3:30 p.m. as will the other bar in the village. Around just us and a couple of foreigners also looking for a drink. We are a little worried, as well as hungry and thirsty, because it is still more than seven kilometers to Otranto. We move from bar to bar under a blazing sun to see which one will open first, finally around 3:45 p.m. the stamp bar opens and miraculously fills immediately with patrons who seem to appear out of nowhere. <\/p>\n\n Finally after 4 p.m. we set off again refreshed. The road to Otranto is very beautiful, crossing the countryside along the Idro valley. Here we encounter the crypt of Sant'Angelo, a rock church in which remains of frescoes are still visible, also all around remain caves presumably inhabited around the year 1000. The final part of the walk flanks the Idro River and takes us directly into the center of Otranto. <\/p>\n\n Here the impact with this new reality is devastating, after three days lost in nothingness we find ourselves immersed in the vacationers who crowd the city. We need some time to adjust and we will do so not without regret. Our B&B is strategically located in the historic center near the belvedere of the ramparts. Dinner in Otranto without infamy or praise, too many tourist places little real tradition. One observation regarding the time of dinner, while in the interior it was difficult to dine before 8:30 pm here in Otranto, due to tourist requirements restaurants are already full at 7:30 pm. <\/p>\n\n Right in Otranto the Via dei Borghi rejoins the Via del Mare. Do you want to discover this route? Read <\/mark>here <\/mark><\/a>Laura's blog diary!<\/mark><\/em><\/strong><\/p>\n\n 22 km<\/strong><\/p>\n\n As lively as the city was in the evening as it is deserted this Friday morning at nine o'clock, the strong wind sweeping the Adriatic forced a large three-masted cruiser to take shelter in the harbor. We have breakfast in one of the many cafes and then take advantage of the calm to take a tour of the historic center, which is really quaint and in particular we visit the Cathedral of Santa Maria Annunziata with its fantastic mosaic floor, executed between 1163 and 1165, which covers the entire surface of the church with scenes from medieval bestiaries, the Old Testament and the life of Alexander the Great. The crypt is also notable. <\/p>\n\n Before we set out, we go to the castle for passport stamping. The path of the Via dei Borghi in Otranto reunites with the Via del Mare<\/a><\/strong> and descends to the harbor flanking the coast in a southerly direction, the landscape is rocky and barren and turning back we have a beautiful view of Otranto. The path takes us to the elevated Torre della Serpe and then back down to the coast where ravines and caves alternate. Before long, after crossing a plain covered with shrubs and close to the sea we arrive in Orte Bay, already crowded with tourists, where in a beautiful glamping we make our stamp and drink an excellent Lecce coffee. <\/p>\n\n Soon after, the trail climbs to the Bauxite Quarry, a very scenic place with a pond between red sloping banks and pine trees. Very photographed place and quite crowded. The walk continues rather far from the coast, but the sea seen from above is a spectacle. The vegetation and typically Mediterranean unfortunately at one point defaced by a relatively recent fire. The smell of burning is in the air, but among the burning brushwood new shoots are already sprouting lushly. We catch a glimpse of the Punta Palascia Lighthouse in the distance and with a further surge the path reaches the provincial road and flanks it for a stretch. Near the lighthouse, as if in a mirage, a van materializes with the imaginative name of \"The Wandering Coffee Maker,\" and we cannot avoid making a stop. <\/p>\n\n From here on, the path passes through highly evocative places, climbing inland to pass Capo d'Otranto and circling around it in an impervious and rocky landscape with a steep descent back to the sea, on the right the ruins of the Tower of Sant'Emiliano and on the left the entrance to Grotta della Macchia. Having reached the flat, one continues along the sea towards Porto Badisco, located about 15 kilometers from the departure from Otranto. In this stretch, if the weather is favorable, as in our case, it is advisable to take a dip, taking advantage of the less impervious rocky areas. Porto Badisco is an absolutely beautiful place but we get there on Friday, September 5, and it feels like Rimini, bathers everywhere both in the water and on land. We stretch our pace toward the grocery store that will do our stamping for us. <\/p>\n\n We eat something, fill our canteens, and leave almost immediately. As you may have guessed, we are not overly sociable people. The route continues for a stretch on a sunny uphill provincial road and then turns back to the left into the countryside; it is three o'clock in the afternoon and very hot. After a long while ahead of us we see another pair of walkers and almost in competition we get on their trail, but when we have almost caught up with them we realize that they have led us off the road. We consult the GPX and turn back. We go up the other side of the hill and here we actually face four walkers who we later find out are from Cortina. <\/p>\n\n The path continues through parched and stony countryside at high altitude. Two kilometers from the daily destination, Santa Cesarea Terme, the path turns in on itself and descends rapidly through even a steep flight of steps toward the sea. We enter Santa Cesarea Terme and at the beginning of the town we find the bar for stamping. Santa Cesarea, as the name implies is an elegant spa town with large buildings and hotels, ours unfortunately is on the opposite side of the town and at the top of a steep slope that gives us the runaround for that day. Fortunately for dinner we find a restaurant very close by and even more fortunately tomorrow's route passes right through there. <\/p>\n\n 23 km<\/strong><\/p>\n\n Breakfast at the hotel and departure. The path in its first section takes us uphill on provincial road SP358 and before the disconnection makes us bend left toward Castro. We cross the classic Salento countryside that we have come to know and after 6 kilometers we arrive in Castro, a village perched on a promontory that immediately fascinates us. A beautiful square with a fantastic belvedere surrounded by historic buildings including the Aragonese Castle and the ancient Messapian Walls. At a bar in the square we make our stamp, fill our water bottles, it continues to get very hot, and drink a coffee from Lecce. <\/p>\n\n The village is lively and welcoming enough that we struggle to get back on the road. Now we descend through the narrow streets of the village toward Castro Marina, the ancient Castrum Minerve for the Romans, where Virgil had landed Aeneas. The lower town is much more holiday-like but still very glamorous, from here begins a coastal path among the rocks of about 2 kilometers that is quite challenging and offers excellent opportunities for swimming. We arrive at Cala dell'Acqua Viva, it is Saturday and full of bathers, some of whom we have to literally climb over to reach a kiosk and have lunch. <\/p>\n\n From Cala dell'Acqua Viva we keep going up towards SP358 and after a short stretch we bend right inland for a rather steep and bumpy climb, the next 10 kilometers will be all in the middle of the countryside, even with some fear for our water reserves. Usual landscape, olive trees, pajare, sections incinerated by the fire given to clear the brambles, fig trees, even a few bunches of grapes. After these ten kilometers that seemed interminable we arrive at Tricase Porto and reencounter some civilization, quench our thirst, stamp in a grocery store and get back on the road, about 3 kilometers to our destination. <\/p>\n\n We go around the promontory from the inside and this presupposes other rather challenging uphill stretches, especially at the end of the day, and then we finally descend to Marina Serra, a very small but very beautiful village with beautiful natural pools, few houses, few restaurants or pizzerias, two, only one hotel ours. Our hotel deserves a special mention because in addition to being in a great location by the sea it is cozy and the owners are so nice that they make themselves available to go to the pharmacy for us in Tricase. We have a very good dinner at the hotel and catch up with the four walkers from Cortina with whom we inevitably exchange travel opinions. A little stroll around the village in the evening after dinner further accentuates the positive opinion we had had on first impact. <\/p>\n\n 22 km<\/strong><\/p>\n\n Breakfast at the hotel and on our way for the 22 kilometers of the last STAGE that will take us to Leuca. We start immediately uphill towards the hinterland and reach after almost four kilometers Tiggiano, the place of our first daily stamp, today we will even have four. The pleasant surprise is that in Tiggiano we get our stamp from an artisanal pastry workshop, totally unexpected and unpredictable. We remain admired by both the assortment and the location as well as the prices, which are absolutely low; we taste the classic and fig mostaccioli and take note of their website for future orders. <\/p>\n\n After a few kilometers we are in Corsano and in the bar in front of the schools we get our stamp and have a coffee. The path continues through olive groves and fields of red earth with the ever-present pajare, some restored others almost abandoned, but all very scenic. The road then bends toward the sea to reach Marina di Novaglie with a beautiful natural pool. It is Sunday and contrary to the usual we treat ourselves to a stop at an air-conditioned restaurant by the sea, after all we have earned it, we think. From here begins a path called the Cipolliane because of the caves of the same name. <\/p>\n\n A very picturesque path carved into the rocks follows the route of ancient sheep-tracks bordered by low walls. Once all cultivated with olive trees now the surrounding terraced area is invaded by Mediterranean scrub and prickly pears. Still remaining as a reminder of the ancient cultivations are the \"mantagnate\" high dry stone walls to counteract the sea wind, ever present here. In this unique landscape, with the waves crashing on the cliffs, we continue on to Ciolo Bay. <\/p>\n\n Ciolo is a tourist attraction with restaurants and bars, we get our stamp and cross the bridge that crosses the bay connecting two opposite sides, very picturesque. Immediately after the bridge a steep path begins flanking some rock gyms where we see numerous climbers engaged and, still climbing relentlessly, we arrive in Gagliano del Capo, now just under 8 kilometers away from our final destination. We are again in open country and continue through the usual landscape. Around the 20th kilometer of the day, when there are two more to go to Santa Maria di Leuca, we arrive at the so-called Erma Antica, the place where pilgrims symbolically deposit a stone. <\/p>\n\n We cannot help but do so and to immortalize it with our cell phones. The final two kilometers seem interminable, we finally arrive in Santa Maria di Leuca and laboriously make our way to the Sanctuary of Santa Maria de Finibus Terrae and as expected, but unconsciously removed, we are confronted with the long and steep staircase that rises from the port to the sanctuary. Steps that originated around a waterfall made to celebrate the construction of the Apulian Aqueduct but now melancholically dry. With one last effort and a few pauses we are at the top, we look around satisfied, it was just as we expected. We make the final stamp and have our picture taken in front of the shrine and the lighthouse. Mission accomplished. With some heaviness we head for the hotel, which fortunately is not too far and not too far uphill either. We have dinner at an original restaurant that also merges a bar and the sailing school. We already buy tickets for tomorrow's bus to Lecce. <\/p>\n\n Santa Maria di Leuca is a coastal town with a beautiful seafront promenade and numerous villas built here by the Salento aristocracy beginning in the second half of the 19th century. They are villas that compete with each other with their heterogeneous style, classical, extravagant, Gothic, Moorish, Pompeian signed by the major architects of the time and each of them on the beach has its \"bagnarola,\" large brick cabins that in style recall the villa of reference. We have a bus to Lecce at thirteen o'clock from the Piazzale delle Terrazze and take advantage of the missing time for a little relaxation on the beach and a bath. <\/p>\n\n The bus takes about two hours to get to Lecce via Gallipoli and passing through pleasant scenery, leaving us in Lecce in front of Porta Rudiae, not far from our B&B, the same as the first day. We spend the afternoon walking around Lecce doing a minimum of shopping aimed at gifts to take home. Then last dinner in Lecce before our return, which will be in the early afternoon of the next day. <\/p>\n\n Good experience, relatively easy trail but requiring a minimum of training over distances around and over 20 kilometers. Although we had broken-in shoes there was no shortage, in my case, of toe problems and thus quality patches galore. The ideal time starts after September 15\/20, we left on September 1 and it was still very hot although there was never a lack of wind to mitigate the temperature. As mentioned we enjoyed the Via dei Borghi that connected us with a truer Salento. Needed GPX because the orange arrows on the route were not always detectable. Good advance planning regarding accommodation is essential. Last advice take it easy, don't live it as a competition, savor the moments that Salento can offer. <\/p>\n\nTappa 01: Lecce - San Foca<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n
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Tappa 02: San Foca<\/strong> - Otranto<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
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Tappa 03: Otranto - Santa Cesarea Terme<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n
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Tappa 04: Santa Cesarea Terme - Marina Serra<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n
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Tappa 05: Marina Serra - Santa Maria di Leuca<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n
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<\/figure>\n\n\n\nTappa 1 \u2022 Lecce - San Foca (24,7 km)<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n
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<\/figure>\n\n\n\nTappa 2 \u2022 San Foca-Otranto (23,9 km)<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n
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<\/figure>\n\n\n\nTappa 3 \u2022 Otranto-Santa Cesarea Terme (22 km)<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n
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<\/figure>\n\n\n\nTappa 4 \u2022 Santa Cesarea Terme-Marina Serra (22,9 km)<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n
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<\/figure>\n\n\n\nTappa 5 \u2022 Marina Serra-Santa Maria di Leuca (21,8)<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n
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<\/figure>\n\n\n\nIntroduction<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n
STAGE 01: Lecce - Sternatia<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n
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Stage 02: Sternatia - Corigliano d'Otranto.<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n
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<\/figure>\n\nStage 03: Corigliano d'Otranto - Otranto<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n
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<\/figure>\n\nSTAGE 04: Otranto - Santa Cesarea Terme<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n
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STAGE 05: Santa Cesarea Terme - Marina Serra<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n
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STAGE 06: Marina Serra - Santa Maria di Leuca<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n
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The homecoming<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n
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