Irina pilgrim: along Francis’ Northern Way and toward herself
This is the first account of Irina and her first solo walk along Francis’ Northern Way, a route that starts from the Sanctuary of La Verna and arrives at the Basilica of Assisi, passing through forests, villages, silences and encounters in an Umbria that tells of spirituality. But more than a guidebook, this is a sincere diary, made up of steps, emotions and little big moments of wonder. Irina shares with all of us her journey with an attentive and profound gaze, recounting not only the places she passed through, but also everything the journey taught her: the courage to set out, the beauty of the unexpected, the power of sharing and the value of listening. Those who read these pages will find themselves immersed in a true experience of nature, art, spirituality and a lot of heart. An invitation, perhaps, to take the time to leave, even alone, and find oneself one step at a time.
The departure
Three years ago I contacted the small reception in Gubbio and received the pilgrim’s credential for the Way of Francis. In 2022, after the Way of the Silent Villages, in Umbria, the desire to walk a solo route was born in me and I chose the Northern Way. An itinerary of about 200 km with an initial stop in Chiusi della Verna (AR) and a final stop in Assisi (PG). Plans then varied and the credential ended up in a corner of my bookcase.
We at Cammini d’Italia were also on the path of the Silent Villages in 2024…and it was incredible! That’s why we made a docu-film. Watch it here and get ready for a thousand surprises!
Following a recent meeting, memory brought me back to that precious “” passport “” which was always there, waiting for me to find it, as only with the most precious things happens. One day, a dear person told me about a pilgrimage he had been planning to organize for some time, to a place also very dear to me, a Buddhist temple in the Parma Apennines.
In doing so, she revealed to me that the organization began to take a lot of her space, time and energy. Until, she decided to give up control and that, only after this act, the modes of orientation began to flow like water. It was people and events that came to her, managing in a short time to christen a date for the dreamed path. These words were enough to shape the memory of the desire to walk a solitary path and to reconnect me to the project that was in front of me again: the Northern Way.
When you tend toward precise organization down to the smallest detail, you run the risk of never feeling ready or up to it. These were the elements that kept me stuck. Once I realized that courage is acquired and honed in the field, I decided to set to work. As if by magic, I suddenly had no fears, nor did I ever think I would have any kind of difficulty. There were a couple of things I had to test, I was used to doing the walks with solid groups where I had less responsibility, I didn’t have to take care of the overnight stay or the management of the gps tracks by myself, for example.
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Convinced and dreaming, in less than a week I had completed all the organization by booking accommodations a month in advance. I downloaded and studied the route from the official website “” viadifrancesco.it “” varying the valuable instructions and suggestions available online by a little, to my measure.
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Stage 01: La Verna – Pieve Santo Stefano
15 km, 475 m positive elevation gain
Considering the limited distance of the stage, I decided to include both my trip, from Modena to Arezzo, and the trek in a single day, the latter having a travel time of 5 hours. Arriving at the Arezzo station, one takes a second train towards Bibbiena, and finally a bus that takes one past a place that deserves a knowing visit, not like mine which was fleeting having arrived at my destination after 2 p.m., but I promised myself I would return. The Sanctuary of La Verna, famous for being the site of the Stigmata of Francis of Assisi in 1224, is nestled in the heart of the Casentino National Forest Park.
Taking the first steps of the path, I find myself immersed in an environment perfectly corresponding to my most idyllic imagination. Lush vegetation characterized by a bed, extending both horizontally and vertically, featuring mosses and lichens that spontaneously create a simple, yet essential palette. Benefited by good physical and mental stamina, long, determined strides and a little excited about the adventure undertaken, in just 3 hours I find myself in Pieve Santo Stefano.
Stage 02: From Pieve Santo Stefano to San Sepolcro
35 km, 1730 m positive elevation gain
Since this is a challenging stage, I decided to ride it in two days, breaking it up for the night at the intermediate location, Pian della Capanna. Consult online sources on the updates present for rain variants. I personally had to follow them, not so much because of the rain but because of the high presence of mud.
Before arriving at the Pian della Capanna refuge, a secluded spot on the south side of the Alpe della Luna Nature Reserve, the mandatory stop of the day is the Cerbaiolo Hermitage. Founded as a Benedictine hermitage in the 8th century, it was dedicated to St. Paul, the first hermit. In 1216 it was taken into use by St. Francis and became a place of meditation and stay for the saint and his friars.
Having passed the first night, I set off the next day ever more enthusiastic about all the wonder toward which I am heading, with my steps, as happy and serene as a little girl. I am greeted in the first stretch by a beech forest that close to the road seems to be uplifted and floating, enchanting me as only nature can. Soon after, another episode captures me and the beginning of the day is baptized as one of the quietest and most immersive, I see in the distance a group of horses and my eyes struggle to tear themselves away from them.
Distracted by every detail, I try to soak in every leaf, color, scent and encounter I make along the way to Sansepolcro. Past another place that is an important stop on this day, the Hermitage of Montecasale, an intense triumph of thunder, fortunately without water, accompanies me to my lodging.
Stage 03: From San Sepolcro to Citerna
12.5 km, 300 m positive elevation gain
The Northern Route fits like a glove for those who, like me, have a passion not only for nature but also for art. If time permits, inquire about the very rich amount of masterpieces that the territories you will visit hold and visit those that resonate most with you personally. Taking advantage of the short stop, I decided to postpone my departure until lunchtime so that I could first visit the Museo Civico in Sansepolcro. Birthplace of Piero della Francesca, Raffaelino del Colle, Santi di Tito, Matteo di Giovanni, Angelo Tricca etc..
You will admire what writer Aldous Huxley called “” the most beautiful painting in the world “”: Piero della Francesca’s Resurrection. Before you come across this mural painting, you will be captivated by the Polyptych of Mercy, located in the room before it, and soon after, give way to the colors and geometric shapes of another incredible Renaissance painter, Raffaelino del Colle.
Having said goodbye to the city, we leave Tuscany and continue to the town of Citerna from where the journey into the land of St. Francis, Umbria, begins. The first few kilometers take place amidst the confusion of busy roads, which is why I may not have been able to appreciate this route, unlike all the others. When the stage is complete, you catch a glimpse of a village situated on a hill from which you can admire a stupendous panorama of the entire Upper Tiber Valley: Citerna, a true medieval jewel.
For this kind of adventure, a well-equipped backpack makes all the difference. The First Walk Guide can help you choose the essentials.
Stage 04: Citerna to Città di Castello
20 km, 820 m positive elevation gain
This morning also has surprises in store. I start the day in the Church Museum of San Francesco together with Gilberto, a guide who really knows how to immerse the viewer in the works in front of him. A place full of masterpieces, but with one that stands out among the others because of its fascinating and very recent discovery: the Madonna and Child, by Donatello.
With a baggage full of emotions I continue toward Città di Castello. 5 km before arrival, stop at the Eremo del Buon Riposo where you will find a thriving environment for both the vegetation and all the animals around you, wonderful company that I had a hard time leaving.
Arriving at my destination, shortly after setting down my backpack and arranging my belongings in the lodging chosen, not surprisingly, by the name “” the Gallery,“” I find myself head over heels in the magnificent Cathedral of Città di Castello. An incredible building with a Latin cross plan with a single nave open to side chapels and a 17th-century coffered ceiling.
Stage 05: From Città di Castello to Pietralunga
30 km, 985 m positive elevation gain
I have many kilometers ahead of me, but there is no shortage of energy and I feel fit. Again I choose to follow the variation of the gps track, specifically to avoid a busy route, the Baucca road, and I lengthen the route another 2 km.
I pass by the bar “” il Sasso “” in the morning, making another small detour, but the time for a coffee has become necessary. The stop on this leg is the Pieve de Saddi, another architectural complex that would be difficult to describe in words, precisely because of the deep feelings that certain places are able to make us feel.
A light rain began in the afternoon that would accompany me all the way to Pietralunga. The time of my arrival lingers until 7 p.m., and the sky that accompanied me to the center of town was nothing short of breathtaking.
Stage 06: Pietralunga to Gubbio
26 km, 790 m positive elevation gain
I was prepared by the weather forecast for a day of intense rain, and so it was, but fortunately only for a few hours. I preferred to put on my poncho and continue on rather than stop because the weather did not allow me to do so. The sound of the rain is romantic and the landscapes were fascinating, but the strength of the storm seemed to increase from moment to moment. Fortunately, upon my arrival in the town of Loreto, the rain ceased.
Visit the beautiful and elegant Pieve di S. Giovanni Battista, a place reopened in 2023 following major restoration and conservation work. The dating of the crypt you will find inside is estimated to be between the 11th and 13th centuries, and for both the construction of this and the church, material from Roman times was used. Arriving in Gubbio you will be greeted by a Roman Theater completed around 20 BC. Year that is documented on twin inscriptions originally placed as balustrades inside the basilica and now preserved in the Museo Civico.
Stage 07: Gubbio to Valfabbrica.
38 km, 1210 m positive elevation gain
Another long stage characterized by continuous ups and downs that I divided into two days, choosing as my destination for the night, the Hermitage of San Pietro in Vigneto. Before leaving Gubbio, visit and admire the special details of the Church of San Francesco and the Church of Santa Maria della Vittorina. Before arriving at the hermitage, you will find a wonderful surprise at the Agriturismo del Beccafico where you will see beautiful alpacas.
Upon my arrival, I am really tried because of fatigue and my feet are sore. A valuable person, like all those one is lucky enough to meet during these experiences, advises me to rest a full day and postpone my departure by one day. I ponder it all night without closing my eyes. The next morning I decide to appeal to two of the people dearest to me, whom I met on the first night of the Northern Way.
They, like me, had also studied the route by dividing it into 10 days, and every so often in the evening we would meet at the same locations and share dinner times. I realized that continuing solo, given my physical condition, all the way to Valfabbrica would be very difficult, so I decided to join my two companions. I wasn’t sure I could make it, but I wanted to try. It was difficult, the passes were getting shorter and shorter, but by 5 p.m. all three of us had emerged victorious by completing the stage.
Stage 08: Valfabbrica to Assisi
13.5 km, 660 m positive elevation gain
For the last stage I decide to continue solo, and with a heart full of so many emotions I head happier and happier toward Assisi. Once again one is immersed to the bone in every moment of all that magnificence of which one is fortunate enough to be a part, and what views!
One catches a long glimpse of the Basilica of St. Francis of Assisi. Aware that it is there waiting for me I am overwhelmed by a warm feeling and feel grateful for the magic of this experience. I recommend, if you should not have the time available to do the entire Northern Way, to walk even a part of it to begin with. The beauty that this beautiful path offers is priceless.
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