Emotions on the march along the Camino dei Forti: Francesca’s diary
What happens when a journey born by chance turns into an experience that leaves its mark? A girl from our community, Francesca tells us about it with her Cammino dei Forti , traveled without really knowing what to expect. Backpacking in the rain but with an open heart, she crossed hills and enchanting villages, making encounters that warmed her soul. This diary is a sincere and engaging account of five days on foot in the truest Marche. Among paths immersed in silence, surprising welcomes and moments of pure happiness, every stop is a discovery, every step an emotion. An invitation to leave, to slow down, to rediscover the strength within each of us. Because, as Francesca will discover, being strong is not just a matter of endurance… but of heart.
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Arrival in San Severino Marche
We arrive in San Severino Marche in the evening, it’s about 9 p.m., and a hot dish from Osteria Ninetta greets and welcomes us. A hastily organized walk, I wonder if we put everything in the backpack!!!? And the credentials? Oh no, let’s look on the page of the Path of the Forts and we understand that the Artisan will be open until 11 p.m. for drop-off.
Admit it, you are afraid you forgot to put something in your backpack. Don’t worry, we’ve written the First Walk Guide to help you make the most of your walk!
“Run! Don’t stop!” “It’s 10:55 p.m., impossible it’s open!” “You must wish it hard and it will be open for real!” says Lele.
A light turned on and the door opens. What a place this is! A hardware store that is also a welcome point, with just the right music and the smell of carved wood. Welcoming us is Diego, a bearded man who immediately makes us feel at home. He explains the path to us, recounts it as carefully as an artist recounts his canvas. I feel it: we have chosen well, we are in the right place! Let’s go to sleep, tomorrow is that day there: the beginning of a new path.
Stage 01: San Severino Marche – Crispiero
Waking up early, pouring rain outside the window. We pack our backpacks and wait for it to rain. At the first sign of a weather reprieve we decide to set off. From the central square of San Severino Marche we enter an alley that quickly leads us toward the castle, which serves as a lookout for the entire town. From here the hustle and bustle, the noises, the frenzy slowly slow down … five days of feeling out of this world begin.
The first stage flows between the bright green hills of the Marche and white roads. We encounter the “Buca del Terremoto,” an imposing doline resulting from a collapse caused by the 1799 earthquake. We continue up Monte Aria and through the Serrapetrona wind farm, where the wind and the rustling of the turns give rhythm to our steps. We arrive in Crispiero and continue a few kilometers to the beautiful Colle del Contadino farmhouse.
Here is Alessio, smiling and energetic, welcoming us: he is one of the founders of the walk. It was great to listen to his stories. An evening talking about experiences, how a walk is born, the connection with Le Marche, but above all the story of a great friendship that gave birth to the Cammino dei Forti. And of the explorer spirit, which despite the passing of time, will never be lost. “We will never stop being scouts!” he says. And perhaps the beauty is right here: growing without losing courage and strength (never was there a more apt word), turning a dream into something bigger!
Forts and other paths in the beautiful region of Marche! We have listed them here.
Stage 02: Crispiero – Rastia
Today is a long one. We gather all our energy to face kilometers and height differences. We stop at the last market for supplies: in the next few days we will not encounter anything. From Castelraimondo we say goodbye to the last urban center and off we go, into the green and a more isolated world. Challenging stage: long dirt roads and a good elevation gain to tackle.
After descending to the Matelica marshes and a well-deserved lunch stop, we choose to ride the Rotis variant, the most difficult. An excellent choice, the view repays us at every step. We are in the Monte San Vicino Regional Park. Commitment sets in on the descent, down a stony path to our destination: Colle del Sole. We are told they cook the best wild boar pappardelle here. And who are we not to try them? Great dinner and then to bed, quickly. The alarm clock will ring before the sun rises.
Stage 03: Rastia – Elcito
We loved this stage and this day. It encapsulates for me the true essence of this camino. We leave early: the weather forecast announces rain by 1 p.m. We leave at 6 a.m., breakfast in the room and off we go! We start immediately with a nice climb that takes us up to the Piani di San Vicino. The sun is about to rise, and arriving at that moment was magical! We started running, jumping and screaming out of happiness. The meaningless one, or maybe just the opposite: the one full of life! And so, isn’t the meaning right here?
We proceed to Monte San Vicino: two of us climb to the summit while the others wait at the spring to regain some strength. The trail continues through woods and ridges. It is windy and the air is clean and crisp. We look around and, from above, we see this small village perched among the mountains. We approach from below and climb toward Elcito. Past the sign, my phone loses its signal. I have catapulted myself into a parallel reality, it is obvious!
Oh Elcito, Elcito-I have heard so much about you! Our friend Antonella had described you perfectly: untouched by time, authentic and deep. The guys at the Cantuccio are waiting to deliver us a room and refresh us with a cutting board and hot crescia. We are divided into several small apartments and, having no phone line, we make a date at home for dinner, as we used to! He has kept his promise: the rain is coming. We close the door and watch it come down through the window.
Inside our little room the stove is lit for a hot pasta dish, four chats, Erika laughing because Ale tickles her, and I confirm and renew my little feeling of happiness. We are not connected to the world out there, but we are connected to the world in here. That was your precious gift, Elcito. I understand it now!
Stage 04: Elcito – Pitino
We return to the world a few kilometers after our departure: phones are ringing again and notifications are coming in. We walk and, after three days, we meet the first café: we are in Corsciano. A coffee and off we go again. It is raining. They advise us to cut through the asphalt road, but we continue on ours.
The trail continues toward Serralta Vecchia. A bit of asphalt strains your feet, but the view makes you forget the little aches and pains. Here you have the feeling of being in the truest Marche, just like the pictures: green, hilly landscapes, white roads. We go down through Borgo Monticole and back up the main road: here is the Pitino tower in front of us. Direction Casal Villanova! What a dinner, guys, and what a welcome: Giusi’s mastery and love of good food and Marco’s stories made us feel at home.
Stage 05: Pitino – San Severino Marche
We leave with some rain mixed with sunshine: never mind! Today we travel on high frequencies: we walk singing and counting rainbows encountered on the way. We return by the short variant to the starting point. After 13 km we are there again, and all the guys from the Camino dei Forti are ready to welcome us, hug us and collect our feelings.
Of the Forts, yes, certainly.
Forts like the people we met, few but so good.
Forts like the Marches, a land that endures and knows how to regenerate itself.
Forts like the mud under our boots and the wind that wrinkles our hair.
Forts like the friendship that is renewed in a project, in a dream or in a common ideal.
But above all, as strong as those who set out-and never stop!