Hadrian’s third step: his Path of the Intrepid Larth
In Adriano’s new walking story, you’ll be with him as he walks – step by step – the evocative Intrepid Larth Trail, a 60-kilometer loop combining art, nature and spirituality between Orvieto, Bolsena and Civita di Bagnoregio. Through three stages full of emotions, encounters and unforgettable views, Adriano – together with Maddalena and Benedetta – shares with us a weekend of walking lived with lightness, enthusiasm and wonder. A diary that is much more than an account: it is an invitation to slow down, listen to one’s own steps and rediscover territories full of history and beauty. Amid ancient paths, cherry blossom trees, craft beers, sun-drenched climbs and group laughter, the Intrepid Larth’s Path is transformed into an unforgettable experience to be lived … or read with an open heart. Let’s set out together on this journey with Adriano!
Stage 00: The Departure
A free weekend, a great desire to walk… and here comes the idea of walking the Intrepid Larth Trail, a 60-km artistic and naturalistic loop that starts from Orvieto, reaches Bolsena, and crosses Civita di Bagnoregio on paths and back roads, among the many wonders of the area. The walk is divided into 3 stages:
- First stop: ORVIETO – BOLSENA
The Path of the Eucharistic Miracle. - Second leg: BOLSENA – CIVITA DI BAGNOREGIO
From the Miracle of Bolsena to the wonder of Civita - Stage 3: CIVITA DI BAGNOREGIO – ORVIETO
From St. Bonaventure to Luca Signorelli
It starts with the creation of the small group of “intrepid”, composed of yours truly, Maddalena (@vivi.fuori), with whom I share the third walk, and Benedetta (@benedetta_sens), a sunny friend from Viterbo. Having found the free weekend (we will do it in two days), the fateful day of departure arrives. I pick up Benedetta and off we go, heading to Orvieto station to wait for Maddalena, traveling by train from Florence. Greetings and introductions, and we are ready for the funicular to the village. Ah no, the funicular is under maintenance!
Do you remember Magdalena? She told us about her experience along the Via dei Tusci and the Way of the Three Villages!
Well, then we take the bus to Orvieto. Once we get to the town gate, we start wandering around. Of course, stop at the bakery! Then we walk through the narrow streets in the direction of the Duomo and the Claudio Faina Etruscan Museum, to pick up our credential. We treat ourselves to a “starry” (for the price) coffee overlooking the Duomo and, after several rather disastrous attempts to capture the departure with the help of some tourists, we are ready for the walk and this new adventure.
Do you also feel like sharing your walking experience with our community? Email us at info@camminiditalia.org and we will send you all the information you need to tell your adventure. If you prefer, you can also join our Facebook Community and share your story directly there.
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Stage 01: Orvieto – Bolsena
21 km
Our Path of the Intrepid Larth begins by crossing through Orvieto, then descending down the valley to the start of a beautiful climb. But first, technical stop: I stamp and, peeking into the café, see some nice carrot muffins. My throat calls and I give in (by the way, delicious!). We begin the ascent in beautiful sunshine, and the impending summer makes itself felt. Fortunately, we arrive in the middle of the woods, among ancient paths, until we reach the sight of the Sasso Tagliato (a large boulder that, according to tradition, opened as the procession carrying the Sacred Corporal of the Corpus Christi miracle, which occurred in Bolsena, passed through Orvieto).
Having passed through, cart tracks and nature accompany us to Sugano, a small hamlet of Orvieto, made very pleasant by the citizens with artwork and flowers. We stamp our passage in the small village bar, refresh ourselves at the welcome drinking fountain and, after wandering the streets, we are ready to face the new ups and downs. We pass the beautiful Castle of San Quirico and are finally at the summit (almost). Now only a few kilometers separate us from the most beautiful of stops we could have wished for.
Thanks to the helpfulness of Ilenia and her partner, we are welcomed to the small BirrAlfina brewery for our lunch stop. We find a table set up for us, in the shade, with a pleasant breeze and the various beers they so passionately create there watching us. Chilling! Relaxation at this point verges on the highest levels. After eating and sampling a few types of beer, and making pleasant small talk with them, we take heart (need I tell you how hard it was to get back up?) and get back on the road.
But is beer really good for you during a trek? We talked about it here!
Saying goodbye to this realistic mirage, we set off again along cultivated countryside and meadows, amid various tastings of cherries and sour cherries, toward Bolsena. There is no shortage of stops and smiles, and so, between explorations, fields and hay bales, we arrive on a knoll from which I give my two companions a glimpse of the lake. We start to descend again, and the asphalt guides us for these last few miles to Bolsena.
We enter the village, stamp our credential at the Battilarda artisan, among his beautiful wooden creations, and continue wandering around. A certain hour has passed, we should do some shopping and walk to our lodging, which is another 4 km away (a choice made so as not to further burden us with the 30 km that awaited us the next day). In the end, we opt for a simple but satisfying dinner in the streets of Bolsena. Now, with energy in our bodies, off for the last sprint! With the last lights of the sun, the first lights of the moon, and a torchlight finish, we thus arrive at our lodging: at last relaxation and with a view.
Stage 02: Bolsena – Civita di Bagnoregio
18 km
Waking up gives us a beautiful view of Lake Bolsena. Breakfast, final preparations and off we go, ready for our second day of walking. After the detour for our overnight stay, we return to tramping the Via Francigena, with the lake and vineyards accompanying us inside Turona Park, until we come to a fork in the woods where we say goodbye and begin to climb. Once at the top, white roads show us wonderful poppy fields and green meadows.
The cherries continue to tempt us-and we give in! So, between trails and asphalt, we make our entrance into Bagnoregio, where we relax in a nice bar, stamp our credential and set off again toward Civita, the ancient village. We arrive at the scenic overlook of the Calanchi valley, a few ritual shots, descend to the bridge and down the valley. Alas, the thriving but questionable management does not allow free passage for pilgrims (and we had been there a few months before anyway).
Stage 03: Civita di Bagnoregio – Orvieto
18 km
It’s up to us to close the trail, and once we get off we have quite a climb ahead of us in the hot hour sun. Fortunately, the view of the badlands helps to distract us from our fatigue. Once in Lubriano, we break for lunch with a view. In the shade of the park and the scent of flowering linden trees, we indulge in a sandwich and beer (at least I did), and immediately afterwards we move to the café chairs for a coffee, getting a stamp of our passage and some much-needed relaxation – not least because we weren’t going to find much from there on.
After filling our water bottles, white roads and fields awaited us. Some stretches could be a bit of a nuisance, but the harmony of the small group drags us along great until we reach Canale Nuovo, where we are lucky enough to find the small hamlet’s clubhouse open. We treat ourselves to another pleasant stop, amidst the stories of the “elders,” a photo exhibition inside and a fresh tea.
The time comes to set off again for the last 8 km or so to Orvieto, and while we were thinking about the arrival and what to do, news arrives in Maddalena of the train strike. Panic! The last guaranteed train is really short on our timetable. We start to descend again, and the Duomo appears in the distance among the trees.
We arrive at the Capuchin Convent of San Crispino, unfortunately for a quick pass, and off we go to the aqueduct and the ascent to Orvieto. The sun gives no respite, and to gain time we walk on the escalators. So we arrive in the city, among thousands of visitors (there is the Corpus Christi Festival and the Historical Procession), and once in the square we find the museum closed for our certificate (we will return to collect it and to enjoy Orvieto a bit).
With that promise, unfortunately we have to quickly cross the festive square to the funicular–this time in operation–down to the station and wait 5 minutes for that last train to Yuma…ah no, to Magdalena’s Florence. A hug… and here’s to our next steps together.
Although only two days, it was intense and full of wonder. It was an unforgettable adventure through the Intrepid Larth Trail, and walking it in company makes each step even more special, turning a weekend of walking into a treasured memory.